I have always been obsessed with chocolate. Or what I thought was chocolate. Growing up, I would always have one thing that I needed a family member to bring for me from their travels – Cadbury Milk Chocolate. No nuts. No fruits. “D plaaaain milk chocolate” I would say. When one of my parents arrived home from the airport, all I was interested in was if they had those chocolate bars with the purple wrappers in their hand luggage. Cadbury chocolate. Since then, my taste for chocolate has evolved. I prefer dark chocolate – real chocolate – and I am incredibly fascinated with Caribbean cocoa production, specifically in Trinidad and Tobago. I have dedicated my undergraduate research to study cocoa producing systems, and now, I’ve dedicated an entire weekend to all things cocoa! Keep reading for a chocolate covered journey in Trinidad!
The day began at Uncorked Wines and Spirits, a wine shop with a cool ambience. We began introductions, and the guide, Gillian Goddard of the Alliance of Rural Communities of Trinidad and Tobago (ARCTT), delved right into the cocoa history of Trinidad and Tobago. There was once a time in which Trinidad was one of the largest producers of cocoa in the world, yet, many Trinidadians have never tasted real chocolate. Or even chocolate that was locally produced from bean to bar. Most Trinidadians, as Goddard put it, like chocolate candy, not chocolate. So, we like Catch, Hershey’s, Cadbury and all that. How do you re-train the tastebuds to enjoy the real thing then? Goddard insisted we learn how to properly eat chocolate. For me, my first instinct is to just bite it off and chew. And, that’s how I end up eating a whole bar of chocolate in one go. I don’t give myself enough time to taste and seriously enjoy the flavours and textures of what I’m eating. We were instructed to take small pieces of chocolate smell them, look at them, and then slowly suck on them – thinking about all the complexities of the flavours. It was our moment to indulge, as much it was our moment to learn and un-learn.
After about half and hour of re-training, or as I like to say, “decolonizing” our tastebuds, we made our journey to our first stop – the National Archives of Trinidad and Tobago. “Have any of y’all been here before?” the tour guide asked, and with 5 Trinidadians on the tour, none of us had been. The National Archives is free and open to the public and contains all historical documents relating to Trinidad and Tobago. So, of course, on a Cocoa tour, one must learn the history of cocoa cultivation in Trinidad and Tobago. In 1725, the native Criollo variety interbred with the Venezuelan Forastero to produce the hybrid variety Trinitario – said to be one of the best in the world! A detailed, history lesson was given in the Archives, highlighting Indigenous history with cocoa, and its relation to T&T.
We headed to our next stop, strolling through the streets of Port-of-Spain, despite the blazing sun. We entered a small cafe and shop on 23 Gordon Street called The Cocoa Pod. The electricity had just come back on, so I guess we brought the light. Wayne, the shop owner, immediately welcomed us and began his demonstrations. The Cocoa Pod is an all-chocolate cafe and shop, where patrons can sit and have a drink (of cocoa!) or purchase chocolate products, including baked goods, chocolate bars, chocolate liqueur, and even a Trinidadian version of Nutella! Wayne chopped up some bars for us to taste, and we enjoyed another moment of indulgence. And just as I thought my day of indulgence was nearing a close, Wayne brought out his homemade gluten-free chocolate cookies made from his unique “chocolate flour”, and his chocolate macaroons with a dairy-free center. Definitely check out The Cocoa Pod here!
After our time at The Cocoa Pod, filled with knowledge, laughter, and an abundance of chocolatey goodness, we made our way back to Uncorked. We continued to chat and discuss cocoa while walking, and Goddard pointed out historical architecture to us around the city, while somehow connecting everything to cocoa. The way that Goddard spoke about cocoa, Trinidad, and history was so captivating.
Though I forgot my sunblock, and was sweating profusely on this tour, I was energized after. I felt like I just stepped into a whole new world of knowledge. Prior to the tour, I thought of it was an activity for tourists, but after experiencing it myself, I truly believe this is something every Trinidadian should do! There is so much we do not know about our own history, and this tour is the step to uncovering some of that. The price is TTD$150 (USD$25), and discounts for groups and children are available as well. Follow The Alliance of Rural Communities of Trinidad and Tobago (ARCTT) on Facebook here.
BONUS: ARCTT also has Community Cocoa Tours (which I will be doing in the future) so definitely check those out too!
Nestled in the Santa Cruz Valley, surrounded by lush greenery, and a mountain view backdrop, you will find The Chocolate Bar Cafe. Serving up classic Trinidadian breakfasts, like coconut bake and smoked herring, and foreign delights like paninis and omelettes, Chocolate Bar is a good place to be on an early Saturday morning before you head to the market. What I really came for though, was all the chocolate goodness. With an extensive chocolate drinking list with a combination of cold and hot drinks, the Chocolate Bar is definitely an eye-catcher.
The Chocolate Bar has options for both inside and outside seating, and we chose outside for the fresh air, and to hear the sounds of the birds – sadly coupled with sounds of car engines and honks as Chocolate Bar is situated on the main road (Saddle Road). They have a cocoa house, where patrons are welcome to partake in cocoa dancing, though they had no cocoa today so I was SAD. Nevertheless, we were met with kind and quick service, a rarity in Trinidad. I ordered the Hot Cocoa with Marshmallows, and my cousin ordered the Cinna-Cocoa Blend Hot Chocolate. Our drinks came out in about 10 minutes, piping hot and well decorated. Though, they gave us straws without us asking for them, which is normal, but I am on a ban of single-use plastic, so I forgot not to ask for straws, so I would urge patrons to ask for drinks without straws, not just here, but everywhere!
Awaiting our food, we got into discussions about the life of children in the Caribbean and how parents need to let their children be children. In the midst of our conversation, our food arrived, one by one. The table ordered coconut bake with salt-fish and coconut bake with smoked herring – two classic Creole Trinidadian breakfasts. The other order was a three-meat (ham, chicken, roast beef) panini, less of a Trinidadian dish, but still great!
I love smoked herring and I love coconut bake, and this meal definitely did not disappoint. Rakeem had the three-meat panini and also raved about its tastiness. The coconut bake was definitely the star of the table with its consistent fluffiness. The presentation was also nicely done. Decent service in Trinidad is rare, so I was pleasantly satisfied with the service, and the overall vibe of The Chocolate Bar Cafe. Overall, our bill came up to TTD$187 (USD$30) with a 10% service charge included, which is pretty good if you ask me! Keep up with The Chocolate Bar here!
After brunch, we made a quick stop in the Santa Cruz Green Market. I came to buy a turmeric and honey soap and buy pineapples – all locally grown/produced. The Casa de Cacao is another stop you can add to your chocolate weekend – though I was all chocolated out (who knew?!) The House of Arendel, a local chocolate brand serves their products here, alongside a crepes and other sweet delights, so definitely add this to your chocolate weekend itinerary! Keep up with the vendors and craftspersons of the Green Market here!
Hope you enjoyed that chocolate covered journey!
Stay Irie,
Kaiomi